A Backpacking Bird Survey of the Rincon Mountains, Saguaro National Park, AZ - Late May 2015

The Rincon Mountains are one of the most viewed, yet little visited of the Sky Islands of southern Arizona. Their proximity to Tucson and their rugged terrain and wilderness designation within Saguaro National Park (e.g. no roads) account for these seemingly opposing conditions. As part of our bird survey work with NPS, we were to conduct bird surveys across the Rincons at transects  conveniently* situated nearby to some of the park's wilderness campgrounds (* relatively). The total hike would take us to 3 different campgrounds, over approximately 27 miles, and through nearly every life zone in the range (Apache Highlands Desert, Mesquite woodland, Oak woodland, pine-oak woodland, Ponderosa pine, Mixed Conifer). Being that this was a backpacking trip, I saved weight by not taking my camera, but did have my phone (an Android S4 which takes some of the best macrophotos I've ever seen) which took the entirety of the photos in this post.

May 19th, 2015
We were dropped off at the southern edge of the range, at the Madrona Trailhead, the site of an old ranger station and now the jump-off point for a government mule (not the jam band) packer  that makes the trip to the top of the range to re-supply the resident backcountry ranger. The Madrona TH lies on Rincon creek, at an elevation a little over 3,000 ft, where the Saguaro is still king and the Mesquite occupies all the space that's left. At 3:00pm we set out into a mildly warm day (mid 80s) and began making our way up 1700 vertical feet to our first camp at Grass Shack. This was my first experience backpacking around Saguaro!

My coworker Samantha and I backpacking through the Saguaro on a mid-may day.

Along the way we had some nice desert resident birds, noticeably quieter than they were a month prior during the height of their breeding season; Verdins, Black-tailed Gnatcatchers, Pyrrhuloxia, and even a Varied Bunting, unusual at this latitude.  Taking a rest beside one of the main draws below Wasp Spring, something stirred in the first Oak leaves along the trail. Out trudged a healthy adult Gila Monster foraging onto the rocks hardly paying us any attention. This was the highest elevation Gila I'd seen this season (3 in the past 4 weeks), he was calm for a little while, but soon became agitated at the photographer.

Gila Monster, Saguaro National Park, May, 2015

As the vegetation began to transition to oak-dominated communities in the higher slopes, the butterfly community began changing as well; less Pipevine Swallowtails and Empress Leilias, more Gray  Hairstreaks and other blues.

Gray Hairstreak, Saguaro National Park, May 2015

Farther up the trail while taking another break, I put my butt down on a trail-side boulder. Enjoying the view for a full 10 minutes, I shifted my weight and suddenly a flutter of wings and energy bolted from just beside me - a Common Poorwill had been sitting on nest the entire time an arm's length away, holding her nerve until she could take it no more. Poorwills nest directly on the ground, where they simply brush a few rocks away for a clean spot big enough for them to sit, and voila a nest! Perhaps they are protected in plain sight by this strategy's bold simplicity.

Wash near Wasp Spring, first oaks of the southern Slopes of the Rincon Mountains, Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

Common Poorwill nest. Saguaro National Park, May 2015

A long mile later we reached a large bench on the mountain of exposed bedrock, where took a right at a trail junction for a mercifully flat .6 last mile into Grass Shack Campground. By this elevation at nearly 6000ft, we'd climbed 2000ft on the day, and had gone through a major vegetation zone change.

Samantha cresting a bench in the terrain. Almost to camp! Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

Praying Mantis Greeter, Grass Shack CG, Saguaro National Park. May 2015.

Grass Shack Campground - 5,800 ft

One of the many water pools along Grass Shack's stream. Saguaro National Park. May 2015.

A praying mantis greeted us as we approached Grass Shack Campground, bidding us welcome to this mesic oasis. Grass Shack sits along a seasonally wet creek with many tinajas and scatterd Alisos (Sycamores in english) along it's banks. We found abundant clear water along the stream's course. After a nice dinner of packed-in burritos from Viva Burrito (Chile Relleno - delicious!) it was time for a night's asleep under the stars.

Camp. Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

The night came without a moon, revealing a sparkling night sky, the kind so common out here in the Sky Islands, where the deserts below and arid climate seem to suck all the moisture and particles out of the atmosphere, leaving a full astronomical show on what seems like perpetually cloudless nights. Lack of a moon didn't stop the abundant nightbirds from singing their chorus, Great-horned Owl, Western-screech Owl, and family of Elf Owls all hooted and barked in their own particular rhythms, while Common Poorwills pumped out their rhythmic notes like a metronome.

 The next morning's survey started mercifully not-early, so after a 10 minute walk and a 445 start, things ran smoothly. VIRGINIA'S WARBLER, BLACK-THROATED GRAY WARBLER, and even a few PAINTED REDSTARTS  at this elevation were a treat. A COOPER'S HAWK and a RED-TAILED HAWK being mobbed by a CASSIN'S KINGBIRD had nice flybys down the canyon. BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER seemed odd at this elevation, but Grass Shack has a well developed, if thin, sycamore lined riparian corridor that is suitable for this species.

Tinajas near Grass Shack CG, Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

Tinajas, Saguaro National Park. May 2015

The real treat of the morning came after the transect was completed and I had time to explore the wild tinajas and waterfalls along the route. The water was only a trickle in it's most active areas, but the pools were alive and healthy, some cascading into others in that graceful way that rock carves from water. One tinaja, a large round one at the top of a sizable waterfall held at least 2 dozen Canyon Tree-frogs, I was alerted to their presence as I approached by the sound of at least10 jumping from the rock into the water. The real stalwarts stayed on the rock wall for a decent phone shot. Canyon Tree-frogs can be highly variable in their skin patterning and these showed off an impressive range of colors, from limestone white to speckled granite gray.

Canyon Tree-frogs above a tinaja pool. Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

Instant Coffee Blues.

Back at camp I made some very disappointing instant coffee - it's just never like the real thing! I must admit however, despite it's sub-par taste, there's something beautiful about the way dehydrated coffee granules dissolve into hot water.


The hike from Grass Shack to Manning is a relatively short (5 mi), but steep (>2000ft) trail that follows a single ridgeline up to the pines. The sun was warm, making shade sacred. Bird activity completely died by 1000. That birds go quiet during the heat of the day is evident to anyone who's spent a full day of work outdoors, but there's nothing like experiencing that kind of quieting on a long backpack day. As the heat rises and the birds go quiet, the cicadas kick up with their grating violin concierto. Leida Ministreaks were out in good numbers, as was our first Arizona Sister butterfly of the trip. A female Gray Sanddragon (thanks Western Odonata facebook page for ID help!) was also found along the trail, a strange taxa to encounter in these arid woodlands.

Leida Ministreak. The fine speckling of this species makes it one of the most attractive Lycaenidae in my opinion. Saguaro National Park appx 7,000ft elevation. May, 2015.

Female Gray Sanddragon (Progomphus borealis). Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

Pine-oak woodland above 7000ft

We reached the pines eventually after encountering only one other group of 5, a Government packer with his string of 4 mules. I kept myself from calling him 'Mule-skinner' (referencing Little Big Man) and instead asked that ubiquitous backpacking question, "how many miles to XYZ?" although I already knew the answer, it's always nice to hear you are close to the destination. The GREATER HORNED LIZARDS were out in full force above 7000ft, these are truly the kings of the herps in these high elevations.

Greater Horned Lizard, Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

Manning Camp, Arizona - Elevation 8,000 ft, May 22nd, 2015

Manning camp is the base of operations for nearly every backcountry activity within Saguaro National Park. It's heliport, good water supply, and fire-camp-ready outfitting make it the summer residence of at least a few fire crews during high fire activity season of late summer, and it's water, kitchen, refrigerator, and shade make it a welcome base for any biology crew working in the highlands. Shannon, the wonderful backcountry ranger who lives at the cabin for 5 months a year is a gracious host with an intimate knowledge of the trails, history, and goings-on at this undervisited sky island crest. The cabin was built in the 1910s by the then-mayor of Tucson as a summer get-away for his family. In what must have been a harsh taste of government right-of-way, the Forest Service took the cabin and his homestead claim away only two years later and turned the area into a forest preserve. By the 1930s the land was given over to Saguaro National Park and the cabin became a residence for nearly 80 years worth of park and research staff. Solar panels keep the lights and chargers on (cell phones and radios), while propane keeps the stove, refrigerator, and backup lights running. As the evening sun sets and the MEXICAN WHIPORWILLS began singing, the lights of the cabin amidst the pines gave a cozy feeling of a time long forgotten.

The high elevation transects near Manning camp yielded some nice high elevation birds; all of our expected upland warblers; RED-FACED WARBLER, VIRGINIA'S WARBLER, AUDUBON'S WARBLER, GRACE'S WARBLER, and PAINTED REDSTART, and good numbers of the regional specialty OLIVE WARBLER. STELLAR'S JAYS and HAIRY WOODPECKERS provided a harsh-counterpart vocalization to the sweet warbler songs. HERMIT THRUSHES sang their painfully beautiful ethereal songs in all directions, giving the forest a beautiful flute-like echo. WESTERN TANAGERS were around in good numbers, as were CORDILLERAN FLYCATCHERS and GREATER PEWEES - perhaps my favorite flycatcher singers with their catcall song of 'Do-dip, Do-dip, Jose-Marrriiaa'. Raptors were scarce this trip, with a single ZONE-TAILED HAWK call coming from across the mountains from a likely nest. While I never saw any raptors, I did find a pile of Stellars Jay feathers, that a likely Northern Pygmy Owl or Northern Goshawk had gotten a hold of it.

In the afternoon I went for a hike towards Reef Rock, which gives a commanding view towards the south. Along the way I encountered Bracken Fern just starting to 'leaf-out', with their fiddle heads reaching for the sun.

Bracken Fern 'fiddle-heads', Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

The view towards the south from Reef Rock, high in Saguaro National Park.

While conditions were not great for butterflying, with mostly overcast skies, and few blooming flowers, butterflies were still present. Some Acmon Blues were a real treat as I had not seen this species in a couple of months. Fatal Metalmarks were found feeding on some groundsels, later in the day I saw the ubiquitous Painted Lady and a few Northern Cloudywings.

Fatal Metalmark Butterfly. Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

Acmon Blue Butterfly, Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

Painted Lady Butterfly, Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

Returning back to camp by the early afternoon, a gravid (pregnant) Plateau Lizard provided lots of entertainment in her seasonal home - the camp's fire ring.

Plateau Lizard, Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

By 1500 it was time to depart from Manning, not an easy thing to do when you know you're heading down mountain into warmer temps and more mosquitos. Sam and I took the classic 'Manning Camp' photo in front of the door, waved goodbye to Shannon and headed west towards Cowhead Saddle. The first few miles of the trail were beautiful as we decended from Ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir into more of a mixed Ponderosa and Chihuahan Pine mixed Oak community. There's something about seeing big healthy Schott's Yucca and Agave growing in the undercanopy of Pine trees that really drive home where you are biogeographically. After 4 miles we made it to Cowhead Saddle, and with a quick right hand turn north to Douglas Spring we were *almost there.

The trip from Cowhead Saddle to the Douglas Springs Trailhead on the edge of Tucson the following day, a span of about 18 hours, was mostly a blur. Our final couple of miles into Douglas Springs campground were more of a limping stumble down an increasingly rocky trail. About half-way, we caught wind of some smoke, a wildfire had started several miles away to the northeast. Thinking perhaps this was the smoke from some previously reported fire we thought little of it and kept hiking. Along the way I saw what I first assumed was an Orange Skipperling, however once landed I was able to snag a shot of the craziest looking moth I had seen in a long time. ID is pending, but this other-worldly creature was certainly beautiful.

Unidentified Moth, Night birds, mosquitos, gnats

Night came quickly after a dinner of maceroni and cheese accompanied by a constant swatting of mosquitos and gnats. Crawling under my sheet was a welcome respite from the bugs as Elf Owls, Great-horned Owl, and plenty of Common Poorwills began vocalizing shortly after dark. These were very active for the first 30 minutes of dusk, slowly fading into night.

Douglas Springs CG, Saguaro National Park. May, 2015.

The early next morning wakeup had me hiking uphill out of camp about 1.5 miles to the beginning of the transect. As I looked towards the sunrise, a large amount of smoke a ridge over appared to be cresting the ridge. A few flaming junipers and oaks were in full view with my binoculars. Just as this scene became apparent my phone picked up some service and several voicemails from our office telling us to evacuate and leave the transect area immediately. As these were sent the previous night, I called in, was told more about the fire and began making my way back down the trail. I had completed 3 of the 7 points on the transect, but the rest would have to be scraped and re-visited on our second trip into the Rincons in mid June. I found Sam on her transect in the wash below camp, we reluctantly packed up camp and began heading back to Tucson. While disappointing, the fire did present a beautiful sunrise addition looking towards Reddington Pass, which seperates the Rincons from the Santa Catalina mountains. Birds seen in the morning were typical of the habitat, Mexican Jays, Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, Scott's Orioles, Ash-throated Flycatchers, large numbers of Bewick's Wrens, a few Black-throated Gray Warblers, and Hepatic Tanagers, and a lone Blue Grosbeak.

A fire on Reddington Pass adds to the colors of a Sky Island sunrise. Looking east from Douglas Springs trail, Rincon Mountains, Saguaro National Park, May 2015.

The 6 mile hike back to Tucson was mostly uneventful, plenty of butterflies (American Snout, Pipevine Swallowtail, Queens, Orange Sulphur, Dainty Sulphur, and Gray Hairstreak to name a few), and quite a few reptiles, including a beautiful Regal Horned Lizard, and my first ever good looks at an Eastern Collared Lizard.

Eastern Collared Lizards must be the liberaces of the reptile world; stunning shades of blues and greens, with yellows white spotting, with some very cute yellow finger-mittens.

Eastern Collared Lizard, Saguaro National Park. May, 2015

Regal Horned Lizard. Saguaro National Park. May, 2015.

In all, we had spent 4 days on the mountain, seen 79 species, a good representation of the bird life of the Rincons, approximately 30 species of butterflies (have not analyzed this data as of yet), and good survey of the reptiles of the various elevations. We returned and did this trip several weeks later, adding an extra day to complete the Douglas Springs transects, that will be reported in a future blog post. Hasta!